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Hosted by Mal Mayfield
1/32 Heinkel He 162
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
_VISITCOMMUNITY
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,525 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1,992 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 28, 2018 - 12:14 PM UTC
I set up to apply the stencil data decals and then realised that the instructions that I had downloaded were not for the model that I had, they were for a later and different marking option!

So I needed to ask on forums and social media if anyone had the relevant instructions. I first of all asked on the "Decals and masks wanted" FB page. Before I could ask anywhere else I had someone ask me if I had tried "Scalemates", "no, I'm not a member but I will take a look". I could find anything so went back to the page to say so, and thanks. The same person had posted a link, I followed it and printed the relevant instruction page

I applied a few decals but then lift the model for the rest of the week end. Do I hate applying decals so much now that I find it difficult to get motivated to even apply the small ones? Maybe, I do find them a necessary pain. It might also be that I was just being lazy!

I did repaint the wooden parts of my Sopwith Pup, and apply black to the parts on my Revell 1/32 scale P-51 that will be painted silver
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
_VISITCOMMUNITY
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,525 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1,992 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 21, 2018 - 01:26 PM UTC
Having finished the painting something was bugging me about the colour of the inside of the twin fin/rudders. It made sense that they were RLM76 but the instructions for the kit, which I had downloaded from the internet, showed that they were the upper surface colour. So, of course I did an internet search and 90% of photos that I found, where the inside of the tails could be seen were painted RLM76, so it stays as it is
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
_VISITCOMMUNITY
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,525 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1,992 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 17, 2018 - 08:51 PM UTC
The white is painted for the eye and the middle of the wolfs ears, then the yellow 4s are painted. The white eyes and ears are masked and the red tongue is painted along with the red arrows.
There is a little build up of paint on some parts of the red arrows and more so on the yellow 4s. This is mainly due to the nature of yellow paint in that it takes more layers to cover the RLM 81. No excuse for the build up of paint on the red arrows! No sweat though as it is removed easily by rubbing a lint free cloth over the markings, when the paint is dry, of course









Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
_VISITCOMMUNITY
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,525 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1,992 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 - 10:46 AM UTC
I won't post the full process of all the masking and painting here, I intend to submit an article and show it in that.

Suffice to say I did have one cock up, for which I blame old age and failing eye sight! I placed the masking over the nose, in front of the cockpit, too far forward. After painting and after unmasking while I was taking photos, so under lights and zoomed in, is when I noticed that there was a nicely feathered white area between the RLM 81 and RLM 76 at at that point! What a pain! I very carefully re-masked the area and gave the offending white a squirt of RLM 76, job done

Because of the very basic scheme the only real issue when applying the masks for the markings was positioning. Getting the first of a pair on is the easy bit, it just has to be square on because the Balkencruez are square. On the likes of a 109 or 190 you have panel lines with which to align them but the 162 wings are pretty featureless. Basically though I position one side and then looked for references around the flying surfaces and their panel lines and then repeated those positions but from the other side. I did use thin strips of masking tape to aid with doing so.

The first mask to be painted though is the white of the shield on the unit emblem.


After that the white mask is removed and the black one is positioned in its place. Then all the black elements are painted.
















So just the yellow number and the red arrow and tongue of the wolf, plus its white eyes and ear centres.
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
_VISITCOMMUNITY
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,525 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1,992 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 09, 2018 - 09:53 PM UTC
I spent an afternoon masking the engine pod and the under surface of my He 162.

I used Tamiya's masking tape for curves over the nose, but this couldn't do the tight curves needed at the wing to fuselage transition, so I ended up drawing a mask and cutting the 4 pieces. The rest was done using "Kip" tape.

I haven't tried to mask at the center of the leading edges of the wings and tail planes, as these are really too thin for that. Rather I placed masking on the underside so it just protruded forward of the edges, the aim being to allow the wing structure to achieve the masking, buy spraying perpendicularly to the upper wing surface










Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
_VISITCOMMUNITY
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,525 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1,992 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 09, 2018 - 12:14 PM UTC
Well spotted Lucky

No I have stripped the wood effect off my Sopwith Pups internals and I will be starting again. This sort of got in the way because I can now see the finish line.

I am also a bit distracted on the WWI front as I am trying to work out how to make a million poppys! I'm also thinking that it isn't just the anniversary of the ending of the first World War this year. It is also the 100 anniversary of the forming of the RAF and that of votes for women So I am wondering if I can work all of those into a Diorama?
Littorio
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 15, 2004
KitMaker: 4,391 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1,152 posts
Posted: Monday, January 08, 2018 - 11:46 PM UTC
Looking good Mal but itís not WWI
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
_VISITCOMMUNITY
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,525 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1,992 posts
Posted: Monday, January 08, 2018 - 12:51 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Paint chipping does look good Mal.
Will you scuff up the rest of the plane with some chipping as well?
Andy



Thanks, I am quite pleased with it and it doing it did show me that it is possible to use this method with the MR Paint that I use, which is pretty tough stuff! The trick seems to be to scratch the surface a little, I used the wooden cocktail stick, then it seems to go to plan It was very much easier to chip the NATO black over the pale burnt metal, which bodes well for what I really want to use this technique for, chipping the wing roots on Spitfires

I don't plan on chipping the rest of the air frame, much of it was plywood!
betheyn
Staff MemberSenior Editor
AEROSCALE
#019
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: October 14, 2004
KitMaker: 4,363 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 785 posts
Posted: Monday, January 08, 2018 - 02:10 AM UTC
Paint chipping does look good Mal.
Will you scuff up the rest of the plane with some chipping as well?
Andy
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
_VISITCOMMUNITY
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,525 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1,992 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 07, 2018 - 12:44 PM UTC
I have many models on the go, not that I want to have but that is how it is. All of these models stalled during construction or even at the painting stage. The reason for these models stalling is all down to me needing to find a better way of doing something and starting something else. So the number of models started but not finished grew. Even when I knew the way forward it has often been a problem to get on with them.

A case in point is this, the Revell 1/32 He 162. It was started as an "easy build mainly to have something else Luftwaffe with painted on markings. That was quite a number of years ago, before moving down here and I have been here since 2011! The reason that it stalled was because on half of one of the tail fins was the wrong half! It took a few years to be able to get a replacement but then this sat on my spray bench after I was ready to spray the primer coat, because of a couple of other, small issues, which I won't bore you with. Recently, last week, I finally primed it, whit as is the norm for me.I then ordered the paints that I needed from the MR paint range, along with others and I started to get some paint on it at last

The engine cowling is RLM 82 and the nose of that is RLM 04 and the rear exhaust cone black.

I figured that this might be an ideal opportunity to, finally, try the "hair spray" technique. I painted the exhaust cone first of all in Alclad 2 pale burnt metal, then applied the decanted Tresamme (firm hold), through my air brush. When dry, 5-10 mins, I over painted with the RLM 04 on the nose and "NATO black" on the exhaust cone. I let these dry not too long 15-20 mins and then tried applying water. This did nothing! but I kept applying it but started to use a wooden tooth pick to scratch at the paint surface. This started to scratch off a little of the paint, then the water seemed to want to do its stuff and rather than running off the surface it sort of felt more like it was reacting with the paint/hair spray. and I was able to use an old cut down brush to scrub at the paint. In the end the trick was to get a small scratch by being fairly brutal with the tooth pick and water, then extending the scratch with the brush. It was very much easier to achieve the effect seen on the exhaust cone. That on the nose seems a little more contrived but I think that is down to, seemingly, having to use the tooth pick more, and also more brutally.

Anyway I have learn't and I am reasonably happy with the way this looks. Next up the painting of the rest of the fuselage and wings, then the best part, the markings. They will include a painted unit badge