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The Creation of a Work Station
kevinekstrom
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Illinois, United States
Joined: December 08, 2017
KitMaker: 53 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2018 - 03:12 PM UTC
i would stay away from the Chinese knock-off guns. You can get a decent used Badger on the bay for 50.00 bucks. I have had my badger 150 for well over 20 years and that baby still works like new. I have had it tuned up by badger a few times, but the cost for a tune up is dirt cheap.


if you land something like this it will last you forever and perform very well. Just send it off to Badger for a check-up and it will cost you about 12.00 plus shipping. I'm very lucky because badger is basically in my backyard.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BADGER-AIR-BRUSH-150-IL/112874778544?hash=item1a47dc6fb0:g:b5QAAOSwZrtarUU7
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
KITMAKER NETWORK
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 3,530 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 18, 2018 - 11:40 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Picked up a Lindberg 1/750 HMS KHV at Hobby Lobby for $7 on Saturday. It was on clearance.

Not the right scale and with only one and a half sprues, not the most detailed set by any stretch of the imagination. BUT, it will allow me to practice my AB skills and play with making some rigging.

SIDENOTE: I was at another LHS and found a waterline 1/700 Rodney in stock, They wanted $64.95 for it!! Same kit is on Amazon for $21!! What is this?!



It is a very clear lesson about the necessity for shopping around. Remember to add the shipping costs when comparing prices but buying via the internet is mostly cheaper.

Set up an image account at imgur.
Upload the images to imgur and then link to them from your post. The personal galleries here at Kitmaker are small and slightly tedious to use. It could also be an issue with the size of your image.

/ Robin
ChurchSTSV
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Arizona, United States
Joined: September 20, 2017
KitMaker: 103 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 18, 2018 - 10:50 PM UTC
Picked up a Lindberg 1/750 HMS KHV at Hobby Lobby for $7 on Saturday. It was on clearance.

Not the right scale and with only one and a half sprues, not the most detailed set by any stretch of the imagination. BUT, it will allow me to practice my AB skills and play with making some rigging.

SIDENOTE: I was at another LHS and found a waterline 1/700 Rodney in stock, They wanted $64.95 for it!! Same kit is on Amazon for $21!! What is this?!
ChurchSTSV
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Arizona, United States
Joined: September 20, 2017
KitMaker: 103 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 14, 2018 - 09:19 PM UTC
I tried to upload a picture of my workstation, but the picture won't upload to Kitmaker and Google Drive won't share.

Having admin'd a forum in the past, this websites hosting capabilities are mind-bogglingly complicated. I read all the stickies about using [img], but none reference if the picture just doesn't upload.

Shame.
Vicious
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: September 04, 2015
KitMaker: 1,079 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 13, 2018 - 05:07 AM UTC
MM paints are ready for the AB and made USA

https://www.missionmodelsus.com/
ChurchSTSV
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Arizona, United States
Joined: September 20, 2017
KitMaker: 103 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 13, 2018 - 04:30 AM UTC
Quick question:

Is there any bottle to AB direct paints that don't require thinning? Just wondering if there is an easier process for this.
ChurchSTSV
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Arizona, United States
Joined: September 20, 2017
KitMaker: 103 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, March 12, 2018 - 10:42 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I can understand her saying no to the Arizona
A battleship in 1/200 is a lot of model to build and it takes up a lot of space when finished.
I have the old Nichimo 1/200 Yamato which I plan to build as a radio control model.

The internet shops are full of 1/700 ships but maybe you could consider 1/350 instead?
The selection of ships is expanding, they are reasonably detailed without becoming too much work or causing logistics problems when finished.
Trumpeter have 6-7 pages of them:
http://www.trumpeter-china.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=index&id=179&l=en they also have a bunch of 1/350 aircraft ...
and there are other producers like HobbyBoss:
http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?m=Product&a=index&p=3&id=165&l=en mostly submarines but they have the Arizona, Alaska & Guam
/ Robin



1/350 would be awesome but I am restricted by space. With that in mind, I am building 1/700 scale due to being able to build more models and not have to worry about where they will be going.
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
KITMAKER NETWORK
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 3,530 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, March 12, 2018 - 10:26 PM UTC
I can understand her saying no to the Arizona
A battleship in 1/200 is a lot of model to build and it takes up a lot of space when finished.
I have the old Nichimo 1/200 Yamato which I plan to build as a radio control model.

The internet shops are full of 1/700 ships but maybe you could consider 1/350 instead?
The selection of ships is expanding, they are reasonably detailed without becoming too much work or causing logistics problems when finished.
Trumpeter have 6-7 pages of them:
http://www.trumpeter-china.com/index.php?g=home&m=product&a=index&id=179&l=en they also have a bunch of 1/350 aircraft ...
and there are other producers like HobbyBoss:
http://www.hobbyboss.com/index.php?m=Product&a=index&p=3&id=165&l=en mostly submarines but they have the Arizona, Alaska & Guam
/ Robin
ChurchSTSV
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Arizona, United States
Joined: September 20, 2017
KitMaker: 103 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, March 12, 2018 - 09:31 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Boys, I got an Airbrush!!

I scored a freshly rebuilt Badger 150 on Craiglist for $40!! Tested and cleaned, works like a dream!!



Congratulations!



I am pretty pumped. I have a donated 53 Corvette I will use to practice on. We are full steam ahead!!

Now I am waiting on a pin vice and some rigging and then I will have to decide on a ship. Went to a LHS near me and they didn't have anything in 1/700 scale.

They did have the 1/200 USS Arizona...


Wife said no.
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
KITMAKER NETWORK
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 3,530 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, March 12, 2018 - 01:38 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Boys, I got an Airbrush!!

I scored a freshly rebuilt Badger 150 on Craiglist for $40!! Tested and cleaned, works like a dream!!



Congratulations!
ChurchSTSV
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Arizona, United States
Joined: September 20, 2017
KitMaker: 103 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 11, 2018 - 09:13 PM UTC
Boys, I got an Airbrush!!

I scored a freshly rebuilt Badger 150 on Craiglist for $40!! Tested and cleaned, works like a dream!!
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 1,857 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 08, 2018 - 01:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Well guys, (...er..Robin) the wife poo-poo'd the idea of a AB right now. So that is out. Looks like I am going back to the standard of paintbrushes/spray cans. I will try my best to get wheat I deem an 'acceptable' paint job on the beasts and may forgo ships with cam leaning on the morning difficult side (Tirpitz, etc)

I am still pushing forward with my love of modeling and will be picking up some Tamiya spray paints this weekend.



Charlie, Here's a sugggestion for you. I typically didn't have a lot of extra cash around while I was young and newly married, so buying expensive hobby equipment was not always an option (I was in the Army too, so building wasn't an option either most of the time). So I began figuring out how much "allowance" I had in expendable cash every day. You'd be surprised how much food, coffee, and do-dads you spend on add up every day. I set a limit for expenditures. I packed my own lunch at home, and I cut out all the other items I "blew" my money on. I then collected the extra cash I had left over every night in a glass jar. Sometimes, I just threw whatever change I had left in my pocket. At the end of the month, I'd have a sizable amount of cash-- usually $30-50, which was a lot of cash in those days. Then I'd split the cash with my wife, keeping my half stuffed in a book on the bookshelf (usually a hobby book). Before long, I'd saved enough for a pretty nice Paasche double action AB (to replace my single action Badger). My wife couldn't argue too much the day I brought it home, since I'd been splitting my "excess" cash with her all along.
VR, Russ
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 1,857 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 08, 2018 - 01:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Good to know that Russ keeps an eye on me and agrees, but only to a point

Humbrol is and was my favourite but the quality HAS slid since the late eighties. One thing I believe they changed was the amount of pigment (paint = pigment/coloured stuff + glue).
Only pigment = dust
Only glue = clear laquer
What I think they did was to reduce the size of the individual grains of pigment, which is a good thing, BUT they didn't increase the number of grains to make up for the loss of total volume. The result was a "finer" paint with reduced coverage. This hit the light colours most. My solution was to take two jars of the new "formula", pour of the "clear" stuff into a small tin, dig out the lumps of pigment from one jar and stick it in the other and then fill up the rest of the jar with the "clear" stuff. This gave me better coverage.

I bought a lot of tins back then and they are still around since family life has reduced the building and painting to almost nothing.

Tru-Color paint: I am testing a "dark yellow" railroad bottle on a Pz III (still assembling plastic) but I am happy so far.
I would be very surprised if they changed the chemistry when they make armour/aircraft/naval paints.

/ Robin



Robin, not keeping an eye on you, I'm just agreeing that we see "eye to eye" on some of the same ideas regarding model building. For me, I think that's fantastic given that we're live on different continents! And it proves what a great modeling tool this internet really is. When we share ideas, it's better for the hobby as a whole. In my youth, I never would have been able to talk with others across oceans about the hobby I enjoy, all the more reason that when others tell me model building is dead, I disagree with them and point to this site and others. Model building isn't dead-- it's now enjoying a whole new level that we never could reach at the local drugstore or five and dime. Accuracy, artistry and community in model building are so much more advanced today than they ever have been. I still like my LHS, but even they are still in business because of the Internet to some degree. As for paint-- I believe enamels will remain the least trouble and the most effective paints for modelers. They have limits to be sure, but so do the acrylics-- my solution is to find out what works for you and go from there.

As for Humbrol, I worked in an LHS for a while before the owner passed away and the estate manager mis-managed it, and then sold it for a fraction of what it was worth. We carried Humbrol as one of the product lines, and having experienced the quality of Humbrol in the 60s as a youth, I bought twenty or thirty tins. I found they would not dry completely at all. I discovered this the hard way, after painting two Hobbycraft Sopwith camels with Humbrol "Bronze Green". The paint remained slightly tacky and "cold" to the touch for weeks (good thing I'm a slow builder). I ended up stripping it all off. Thinking it was me (hobby paint issues are usually more because of operator headspace than the product), I repainted painted another project with Lemon Yellow. Same thing happened. I then painted a strip of Evergreen with about twelve different colors as a test-- every one was the same. That strip did not dry for over a month. So something in the formulation was off. This can happen with batches of paint to any manufacturer, but not usually over twelve different colors-- so something is definitely off with Humbrol.
VR, Russ
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
KITMAKER NETWORK
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 3,530 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 11:22 PM UTC
Maybe you could compare the cost of an airbrush with a number of kits that you could postpone buying or give up something else for a while?
Camouflage can be done with spray cans as well, it takes a lot of masking but you would need to mask with an airbrush too ...
/ Robin
ChurchSTSV
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Arizona, United States
Joined: September 20, 2017
KitMaker: 103 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 08:57 PM UTC
Well guys, (...er..Robin) the wife poo-poo'd the idea of a AB right now. So that is out. Looks like I am going back to the standard of paintbrushes/spray cans. I will try my best to get wheat I deem an 'acceptable' paint job on the beasts and may forgo ships with cam leaning on the morning difficult side (Tirpitz, etc)

I am still pushing forward with my love of modeling and will be picking up some Tamiya spray paints this weekend.
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
KITMAKER NETWORK
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 3,530 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 02:16 PM UTC
Good to know that Russ keeps an eye on me and agrees, but only to a point

Humbrol is and was my favourite but the quality HAS slid since the late eighties. One thing I believe they changed was the amount of pigment (paint = pigment/coloured stuff + glue).
Only pigment = dust
Only glue = clear laquer
What I think they did was to reduce the size of the individual grains of pigment, which is a good thing, BUT they didn't increase the number of grains to make up for the loss of total volume. The result was a "finer" paint with reduced coverage. This hit the light colours most. My solution was to take two jars of the new "formula", pour of the "clear" stuff into a small tin, dig out the lumps of pigment from one jar and stick it in the other and then fill up the rest of the jar with the "clear" stuff. This gave me better coverage.

I bought a lot of tins back then and they are still around since family life has reduced the building and painting to almost nothing.

Tru-Color paint: I am testing a "dark yellow" railroad bottle on a Pz III (still assembling plastic) but I am happy so far.
I would be very surprised if they changed the chemistry when they make armour/aircraft/naval paints.

/ Robin
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 1,857 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 05:50 AM UTC
Charlie,
Again I agree with Robin--to a point. Here's the list of Paint I've used in more than 50 years of modeling. The only constants have been Tamiya and Testor's paints. But I also really like Gunze Mr. Color, but you can hardly find it in the US anymore. These are listed in order of my favorites, Best to Worst. Two paints I have not tried are MRP and Tru-color (although I have tried Tru-Color railroad colors--they are excellent). I know others will disagree, but it's a matter of preference based on ease of use for me:

1) Mr. Color
2) Tamiya
3) Testors (MM/square bottle/Floquil-- but I think they've killed their Floquil line)
4) Tru Color (have not tried any of their new line of Military colors)
5) Gunze Aqueous
6) Lifecolor
7) Vallejo
8) Mig
9) Humbrol

Specialty Paints:
1) Alclad II
2) Testor's Metalizer

Humbrol used to be the best paint you could buy in the 1960s and 70s, but they've had a slide lately with quality. I sort of like Mig and Vallejo, but they are expensive, temperamental, and there's not a lot in the bottle. The best all around paint as Robin has said are enamels. MM can be brush painted and spayed through an AB. Vallego, Mig, and the Aqueous paints are temperamental when airbrushing or brush panting. Tamiya and Gunze Mr. Color are synthetic lacquers, with low odor, for my money they airbrush exceptionally well, although they don't brush paint as well unless they are properly thinned. The only good way to do that is with Mr. Color leveling thinner.

I clean my airbrush with Home Depot lacquer thinner, which I buy by the gallon--it lasts a long time that way. Save your proprietary thinners for thinning your proprietary paint, and don't use another thinner for a different paint (Gunze Leveling thinner does work with Tamiya though).

VR, Russ
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
KITMAKER NETWORK
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 3,530 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 03:58 AM UTC
My most local hobby shops are right here beneath my keyboard and behind my screen. It's sad but that's the way it is. Lower prices, larger selection, always open so I can go "shopping" even if work and family takes up the normal "business" hours.
/ Robin
ChurchSTSV
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Arizona, United States
Joined: September 20, 2017
KitMaker: 103 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 03:42 AM UTC
If I remember correctly, the LHS near me (the ONLY LHS near me) carries Tamiya paint. I was looking at Vallejo and MM online too. I am stopping by there this weekend to see what supplies I can scrape up.

Last time I went there, I can remember some Trumpeter 1/700 kits being there for $40+. I am all about supporting small business but that is insane. I found the same kits on Amazon and Ebay for $20.
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
KITMAKER NETWORK
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 3,530 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 02:11 AM UTC
If you ask all of us the answer will be all kinds of paint.
I stick with enamels. I know that inhaling large amounts of solvents is not good for the health. With the small amounts we use and with proper ventilation it is not more of a problem than living in a big city, fumes from filling gas in your car et.c. et.c. I have tested a some acrylics and they also smelled, different smell but there was still some solvent or other.
I was not happy with the result either but that is a personal thing.
Others like their acrylics and will recommend that you use acrylics. Note that one type of acrylics is not the same thing as another brand.

One thing to consider is availability and cost. What type of paint is easiest for you to buy? Internet shop, local hobby shop?
Look around and see if something catches your attention and then you can ask here for advice. Some paints can be tricky and will only work with specific thinners.

/ Robin

One more thing about sources for cheap styrene sheet.
Broken CD-cases can be recycled as building material.
Check for glue-ability.
ChurchSTSV
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Arizona, United States
Joined: September 20, 2017
KitMaker: 103 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 01:48 AM UTC
So more questions for ya guys: What kind of paint do you spray through your AB? I am looking at enamels vs acrylics and wondering which one to use.

I have been watching all the YouTube videos in regards to using a AB and they use all kinds of paints. Model Masters, Vallejo, etc.

Help me out guys!
ChurchSTSV
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Arizona, United States
Joined: September 20, 2017
KitMaker: 103 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 - 02:23 AM UTC
I hear ya, Robin. I'll see if I can get some styrene stuffs to start working with, but since I am still getting my bearing, i'll pick up some flller too!
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
KITMAKER NETWORK
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 3,530 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 - 01:49 AM UTC
In addition to what Russ writes:
If the gaps are large I start with building up layers (laminating) styrene strips) to fill the holes.
Small fixes can also be done with CA-glue. Accelerator for CA or baking soda can speed up the hardening.
Not quite as "clean" and tidy as filling with styrene patches though ...
/ Robin
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 1,857 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 1 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 - 12:42 AM UTC
I agree with Robin-- up to a certain point. That point is when the gap is not uniform, really wide, or in a complex shape where even a riffler file won't work. Sometimes a dab of filler is the best way to tackle the gap. In those cases I use the styrene method, but I also us putty. I know lots of folks like Aves filler, Acrylic plastic putty, even cyanoacrylate (super glue) gap filler. At one point or another I've tried them all, including good old Elmer's white glue, some of the acetone based wood fillers (they usually contain some form of powdered wood dust), and Kit Industries Porc-a-Filler ( in my opinion this is the best all around filler, but you can't find it anymore-- it's designed to patch porcelain sinks, bathtubs and toilets, but it's solvent based and very fine grained). In the end, my four "filler" standards are Bondo Red body putty (available in any good auto parts store), Tamiya white and gray putty (Hobby Lobby or Hobbytown or any good LHS), and Gunze's Mr. Surfacer 500 (for really small gaps). All of these are very fine grained, last a long time in the tube/container, are easy to sand, can be thinned, and don't shrink or form pits as they dry.
Having said that, I'm with Robin-- I use Evergreen styrene strip in various widths and shapes to fill gaps wherever possible. I also glue the wings to the fuselage of aircraft before assembly wherever and whenever possible, and I check parts fit and reduce "high spots" to get as close to perfect fit as I can before gluing. It's much better to have a tight seam than it is to have to try and hide a gap with putty and paint,but sometimes it's unavoidable, especially with some of the limited run kits. Have you seen Paul Budzik's guide to fine scale modeling? It's worth a look, and he has the best collection of modelling videos in one place. Paul likes to use dental filler for putty (he's a dentist and can get it) but you don't need much putty if you use Robin's method.
http://paulbudzik.com
VR, Russ
VR, Russ
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberDirector of Member Services
KITMAKER NETWORK
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 3,530 posts
IPMS-UK KitMaker Branch: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 11:01 PM UTC
This is strictly my personal opinion/taste so take it for what it is worth.

Do. Not. Use. Filler.

Sort out the fit issues before gluing together to try to avoid filling.
If, after some work, the join still will not close it is better to fill it with a strip of plasticard / styrene strip. These can be bought in various sizes and dimensions or you can cut them from various packaging, usually for food.
Test the plastic with the solvent glue you use for the kits, if it glues together then you're in business
Filling joints and holes with strips and pieces of styrene gives a filling which doesn't smear all around the filling.
The filling will also have the same hardness/softness as the kit parts so it will be simpler to sand smooth.
Sanding is reduced to a minimum since the filling is only where it is needed. If the strips are cut to the right size there will be very little sticking out and the excess is easily filed down (see riffler files above).
/ Robin